Organic Gardening: System Design

“In human systems, we have confused the order of hierarchical function with status and power, as though a tree stem were less important than the leaves in total” - Bill Mollison

In this series I have talked about various elements of an organic garden like, compost, pests, companion planting etc. But it is how we place these elements that determine their effectiveness within your garden system and this is called System Design. Though I have drawn on many sources for system design and indeed this is an ongoing dynamic exercise. The root or base of system design for me, originates from ancient traditional farming practises that have been analysed and transformed with modern scientific knowledge. This organic dynamic system design was initially created and implemented by Bill Mollison and David Holmgren who catalysed a true green revolution called Permaculture.

System design is perhaps the most powerful tool in any organic gardener’s repertoire. Through careful analysis of a multitude of factors and the combination of all elements it is possible through system design to achieve overabundance and maximum efficiency within your garden/system. David Holmgren recently released a book (see book list footer) which includes 12 design principles that can be dynamically applied to any system design be it a balcony garden, rooftop, backyard, small holding or large scale commercial farm:

1. Observe and interact

2. Catch and store energy

3. Obtain a yield

4. Apply self-regulation and accept feedback

5. Use and value renewable resources and services

6. Produce no waste

7. Design from patterns to details

8. Integrate rather than segregate

9. Use small and slow solutions

10. Use and value diversity

11. Use edges and value the marginal

12. Creatively use and respond to change

Perhaps you have noticed I keep on using the word dynamic and this is because there is only one constant in our universe and that is change. Wherever you are whatever your situation, climate, economics, needs, wants etc they are unique to you and ever changing along with the rest of the universe. This means that it is wholly necessary to be dynamically fluid and positively responsive to that constant change of yourself and your immediate environment. Many times have I been confronted by opponents of sustainable agriculture with the argument that they tried various techniques of organic farming but it did not work for them. And nearly every time after gaining some understanding of their unique situation I can see why they failed. The prime reason is the translocation failure of techniques developed for different situation. What specific techniques that have been developed on a farm in Nyanga, Zimbabwe are not guaranteed to work for someone in say on the foothills of Mount Fuji, Japan. It is this problem along with other similar problems that can be addressed by utilising design principals in a unique dynamic ever-evolving way that suits you and your garden in particular. It pays to remember a problem is a solution in hiding.

The first part of system design is really all about observations of you and your current local environment, location, needs, expectations, economics, climate, politics, prime sun and wind direction, rock formations, neighbours etc. Try to amass a local knowledge of your area, what is indigenous? What is not? Are there other gardeners in your area? What works for them? If you can effectively data mine all the resources available to you and combine this with your unique needs and careful observations then you will have the beginnings of your design blueprint. This of course is never static but will it will give you the base ground from which to spring.

In permaculture a Zoning system is utilised as planning design base and is divided into 6 zones. There are two things to remember about zones, firstly they are just a guide and you will find that your situation will dictate their use e.g. if you only have a balcony not all will apply. Secondly they are wholly fluid boundaries and can take absolutely any shape that is dictated by the functions of the zone.

Zone 0
This is your primary living location e.g. your house, main house or flat, where you eat, sleep etc. There are many factors that can affect your living space and I recommend blurring the edge between zone 0 and zone 1 as much as possible. This bring about unification between you and nature with benefits for both e.g. for summertime take bathing outside into zone 1 or 2 by building an outside shower that drains into your garden.

Zone 1
This is the area that is the most easily and regularly accessed from zone 0 e.g. the surrounding areas most used for entrance into your home, but not that side of the house where no one goes. This zone is for all those elements that require daily attention and/or are most frequently used e.g. culinary herbs, short lived fruits like strawberries, greenhouse, propagation beds, static chicken/rabbit coops, a worm farm to deal with kitchen waste like cooked food, combination ornamental-veggie-herb beds (see companion planting), and all your frequently used annuals and perennials. You get the idea it is basically the areas you most use to get into and out of your home combined with the most used or needy garden elements.

Zone 2
If you have a walkway leading to your kitchen door the areas easily accessible on each side would be zone 1, but directly behind that and out of reach of your finger tips would be zone 2. Zone 2 is anything that is less needy or accessed than zone 1 e.g. less used perennials such as a bay tree or ginger, self seeding annuals like dill or borage, fruit trees, and large compost heaps.

Zone 3
Now just behind zone 2 is zone 3 and this would be anything that requires or needs less attention or is less accessible than zone 2. This is where you would plant annual grain crops such as maize (corn) with pumpkin and beans, large fruit or nut tree’s and beehives. Anything in this area would require minimal maintenance, such as weeding once a week or harvesting once a year etc.

Zone 4
Is a semi-wild area, it requires very little maintenance and one would plant trees for timber or dedicate to large grazing paddocks. And personally from experience I would place beehives in this zone and zone 5.

Zone 5
This zone is to be left untouched and in its natural indigenous state if possible, this zone must be zero maintenance though not necessarily that inaccessible. As I said before these zones can be any shape required and you could have a zone 5 leading all the way to your kitchen window. This is one of the most important zones because it should be nature untouched and through careful observation it will be your primary guide and teacher in the design of your local system. See what works for nature locally and then bring those systems into fruition within your garden.

There is obviously much more to a complete system design but this will at least get you started. If you have any doubts, one only has to look at Cuba to know that this type of design system does work on a large and small scale. For more on how Cuba achieved this watch these YouTube videos:

The Power of Community: How Cuba survived Peak Oil

In this series: ∙ Weed Control ∙ Compost ∙ Pest Control ∙ Companion Planting ∙ System Design ∙ Crop Rotation ∙